Wow, very clever idea.I'm impressed, it looks really good!
i'm worried about the luminosity, isn't it a little bit too much light escaping from the back of the display?
Have you removed the reflecting surface from the back of the display?

Well, since you can't modify the case to allow the twist-flip of commercial tablets, you could always simply have two screens, one on each side, tomywiii. Perhaps not the best solution, but possible.

konidair wrote:

Wow, very clever idea.I'm impressed, it looks really good!
i'm worried about the luminosity, isn't it a little bit too much light escaping from the back of the display?
Have you removed the reflecting surface from the back of the display?

Thanks for the comments. 

When I had posted the pictures and video, the only thing that was keeping the back of the LCD panel from being seen when the screen is open was a piece of white paper.  Since then I have put 2 sheets of aluminum foil between the white paper and the back of the LCD screen.  Now there is virtually no light lost out the back (which was originally the front) of the panel.

and just to confirm:
@tomywii: yes, I did use a Dremel to cut out the hole for the screen. 

I basically covered both the inside and outside of the back lid with blue masking (painter's) tape in the approx area where I would be cutting.  Then I laid the LCD Bezel side (the one that you normally see the screen through) over top the back lid, and clipped it into place with these cheap little clamps from Kmart.

Once the front lid was lined up and secured I traced the inside of hole with a pencil (writing on the tape that was stuck to the outside of the lid).

Basically I used the LCD Bezel as a stencil.

Then I took a 90 degree straight edge (really just a ruler with a sliding level that attaches perpendicularly) and clipped it to the LCD lid that I was going to cut.  I lined it up with the pencil lines I had made with the bezel as a stencil.

I used the dremel's "cut-off wheel" accessory to cut the LCD lid, keeping the inside of the cut-off wheel flush against the side of my metal straight edge.

When I got close to the corners I would stop, I didn’t want to over cut.

When I had cut as close to the corner's as I could without cutting too much, I used a meal blade from a Reciprocating saw (manually with my fingers, not in the actual saw) to cut the final 1/4 inch.

Then a little filing, and sanding, and that was it.

gtisingh wrote:

@Tomywii ... i thik he used a demel

Great job by the way !
How you planning to mount it ? Slide in tray thing, brackets, superglue

There are several ways I was considering mounting the laptop under the cabinet.

I'd like the mounting system to allow for easy/quick removal, so maybe some sort of bracket system. 

There is a coat hanger trick I saw somewhere where you basically form a metal coat hanger to the shape of the base of the laptop, then curve then ends into 'O' shapes, then just use a screw and washer.

I was flirting with the idea of getting some longer 2mm screws and bolting the laptop directly to a thin metal sheet, and then having some sort or synthetic velcro stuff that the sheet and cabinet connect with, but that is kind of scary.

I think a metal plate that bolts to the screw holes in the bottom of the laptop that slides into a metal groove mount under the cabinet may be the way I end up going though.

Laptop has now been mounted.  Updated Pics and Video in first post.

Very nicely done !
Quick suggestion. - Remove that bettery if you havnt already. The unit will still work with just the power cord in. The reason for this is the magnets, they will mess with the battery big time.

Once again, verrrry nicely done !

Are you just using the windows built in on screen keyboard?